Fiji is not short on heroes of various kinds; military, academic and political. They are, unfortunately, mostly unacknowledged, at least when it comes to Suva street names.
This stands out in the latest edition of the travel guide Suva; A history and guide by Albert J. Schütz and Robert Kay. It's a simpler, more tourist friendly work than Suva Stories, A history of the capital of Fiji recently reviewed here.
Given that the Covid-19 isolation days are over, the cruise boats are returning and tourists are walking the streets, the new Schütz and Kay will find an audience, although one mostly disinterested in coups and political unrest.
Their work on producing a gazetteer of street names is intriguing, noting that they are named for a range of people: ‘Many of these people are all but forgotten, except for traces they have left on the landscape. Like ghosts, their presence is still felt.’
Famous and infamous, they include the governor who was sued for slander, the Victorian lady travel writer, the Tongan chief who nearly became king of Fiji, the commodore who was killed by an arrow and the Suva mayor who died in a shipwreck. Indeed they are almost all colonial white names, or duplicates of Melbourne street names.
There is a reference to ‘Short Street, Extension’ which the book advises is ‘115 paces, to be exact.’
Someday, Fiji might get around to changing some names. Long overdue.
The guide explores the arts and buildings of Suva, as well as a modest amount of the city’s history.
Bravely Schütz and Kay enter the risky and entirely subjective world of recommending Suva eateries. Kanu, run by Australian chef Lance Seeto who seeks to interpret Fijian flavours, is at 46 Knolly Street - once home to Ratu Sir Lala Sukuna, the progenitor of modern Fiji. The authors add to the list: ‘In Fiji, curry is king, but you need to know where to go.’ Curry House on 44 Waimanu Road gets the nod.
‘It can get crowded and noisy during lunch hour, the only time food is served. It is not open for dinner.’
Ashiyana at the old Town Hall is hailed as a bit more expensive: ‘The service is great, and you can get cold Fiji Bitter to wash down that spicy food. You simply will not go wrong at this restaurant, whatever you order.’
Govinda Vegetarian Restaurant at the BSP Food Court is mentioned, as is the food court itself: ‘The food is healthy and reasonably priced, and the variety of curried vegetables — such as okra, pumpkin, potato, eggplant and mung bean — is seemingly endless.’
There is a long list of cafes: ‘Good coffee is no longer a rarity in Suva. Nowadays, caffeine addicts have a variety of spots to hang out, sip cappuccino and nosh on homemade pastries.’
A useful guide.
Suva; A history and guide by Albert J. Schütz and Robert Kay.
©Michael J Field